Fashion Experts Advise On How Mitumba Tax Can Be Used In Kenya

Experts have called for the money drawn from imposing a tax on the importation of worn clothes popularly known as Mitumba to be channelled towards creating a means of income for waste pickers. This is as the impact of national and global policies on Kenya’s textile industry took centre stage at Nairobi Fashion Week 2025, where industry leaders, designers, and policymakers discussed the opportunities and challenges shaping the sector.

Held under the theme Regenerative Fashion Renaissance: Restoring Culture and Nature, the event highlighted how trade agreements, environmental regulations, and local policies are influencing Kenya’s textile industry—from raw material sourcing to production and exports. 

The global fashion industry is increasingly characterized by sustainability, technological innovation, and ethical practices. In recent years, the European Union (EU) has introduced laws to make the textile and fashion industry more sustainable. These include regulations that address the entire lifecycle of textiles, from production to end-of-life disposal. 

The EU’s Circular Economy Action Plan and its Sustainable Product Initiative aim to reduce waste and encourage the reuse and recycling of textiles. These laws are pushing textile producers worldwide to adopt more eco-friendly practices. 

For Kenya’s textile industry to remain competitive and unlock its full potential, it must adapt to these evolving global trends while strengthening its domestic regulatory framework. At the heart of this conversation is the call for a more unified approach to policy that harmonizes Kenya’s laws with international standards.

Different designs on show at the Nairobi Fashion Week 2025. /DANIEL KEMPF-SEIFRIED

"Kenya’s textile industry holds immense potential to thrive on the global stage, but achieving this requires a seamless integration of national policies with international expectations. From sustainability certifications to technological advancements and trade agreements, we need a cohesive strategy that empowers local producers while ensuring they can compete globally," said Professor Josphat Idagwa, an associate professor of Textile Engineering at Moi University, at the event. 

Kenya has made significant strides in the realm of sustainability, with several national policies and initiatives aligning with the global shift toward eco-conscious fashion. For instance, in 2017, Kenya became the first African country to implement a ban on single-use plastics, a landmark policy against pollution.

The National Environmental Policy of 2030 speaks mostly about the management of chemicals from manufacturing which also includes fashion. The green economy strategic plan of 2016-2030 speaks about aligning our economic activities in a way that minimizes emissions and encourages efficiency in energy use.

Another strategy is Kenya’s National Climate Change Action Plan (NCCAP) which focuses on mitigating climate change through adaptation and sustainable development strategies. Sustainable fashion brands in Kenya are now exploring ways to integrate renewable energy into their supply chains and production processes.

Additionally, the Sustainable Waste Management Act has proposed the extended producer responsibility and demands that businesses come up with measures to ensure that the waste generated from the products produced is recycled back into the environment. However, this policy faces challenges in the fashion industry because of second-hand clothing (mitumba).

“A solution would be to set up a producer responsibility organization which will see businesses coming together to take care of the waste. We can also have the clothes taxed at the point of entry and the money used to pay informal waste pickers to either recover the wastes from mitumba or the offcuts from the fashion industry,” says Jeremy Kaburu, Circular economy and research specialist. 

Experts emphasized that while Kenya has sustainably made great strides, there is a need for global policy synergy to accelerate the transition to a more sustainable fashion industry. Policies such as Kenya's plastic ban, support for sustainable agriculture, and promotion of local crafts are just the beginning, but without a cohesive, global approach, progress can be limited. 

Sustainable fashion leaders at the event stressed the importance of creating international trade policies that prioritize eco-conscious production and ensure that sustainability is at the core of global fashion systems. Collaboration between countries will ensure that sustainable practices are not only supported at the local level but also encouraged in global supply chains.

As the global fashion industry shifts toward regenerative and sustainable practices, Kenya’s textile industry stands at a crossroads. Policies must balance economic growth, environmental responsibility, and fair trade to ensure the sector thrives in an increasingly competitive global market.

"National and global policies have a profound impact on the textile industry, both here in Kenya and around the world. Locally, we’ve seen how trade regulations, import tariffs, and the support—or lack thereof—for sustainable practices shape the growth of our fashion sector. On the global stage, policies such as the EU’s regulations on textile waste and sustainability are setting new standards that Kenyan designers and brands must adapt to. The challenge, and the opportunity, lies in aligning our local industry with these evolving international standards while making sure that our policies encourage innovation and support for sustainable practices in textile production.

"Nairobi Fashion Week serves as a platform to bring these discussions to the forefront, as the policies we adopt must be not only focused on business growth but also on environmental stewardship and social responsibility. We believe that collaboration with both local and global policymakers can help shape an industry that is both economically viable and sustainable for future generations,” concluded Brian Kihindas, Creative director of Nairobi Fashion Week. 

A photo of second-hand clothes being sold in Nairobi's Central Business District pictured on November 3, 2022. /MOSES MUOKI